Ripple Mini Block Stitch free pattern

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Block stitch crochet pattern meets the ripple, wave or chevron, what’s not to love?

The block stitch pattern is a very popular stitch for beginners and seasoned crocheters alike. What I love about the block stitch is the little pops of colour you get from the single crochets peeping through.

This stitch uses the block stitch technique, with a row of double crochets interupted by a row of single crochets and chains. The double crochets are worked in the chain spaces. Instead of 3 or 4 double crochet repeats, we have 2 double crochet repeats which is where the “Mini” comes from!

Colour changes are made at the end of every (single crochet, chain 2) row.

I have taken the block stitch and given it a little twist, literally!

I wasn’t sure what to call this stitch so I went with Ripple Block Stitch but I’d love to hear your ideas in the comments.

Colour Options

In the first section I have used navy blue as the main colour (Yarn A in the pattern), and alternated three contrasting colours (as indicated by Yarn B in the pattern).

In the next section I have used each colour for two rows for a solid stripe or wave.

Section 3 and Section 4

The third section is one main colour and two alternating contrast colours instead of three as seen in the navy blue section.

The final section is using three colours and changing colour for each row of the pattern.

Block Stitch Ripple Projects

This stitch is perfect for fun colourful baby blankets. You could also make stash busting blankets and afghans, scarves, cowls, rugs and even garments.

Materials

I used various superwash merino yarns from stash, in double knit weight (Catergory 3, light) with a 4.5mm hook.

You can use any yarn and hook to achieve desired tension. I have used a slightly bigger hook than usual for this stitch as a personal preference.

You need at least 2 colours, see Pattern Notes for more instructions regarding yarn colour changes.

Stitch marker (or scrap yarn 2 inches/5cm) to use as stitch marker.

Pattern Notes

Pattern is in US terms with UK terms in ( ) in the Abbreviations list.

In this pattern, Yarn A refers to the yarn you work all the odd numbered rows (using doube crochets).

Yarn B refers to the yarn you work with for all even numbered rows (using single crochet and chains).

For example, in the sample photos navy blue is Yarn A and the three colours yellow, aqua and pink are Yarn B.

When working in Yarn A for all odd numbered rows, instead of cutting your yarn, use a stitch marker to hold the loop until the next odd numbered row where you will pick up the yarn and continue across the row.

This means when working in Yarn A you will be alternating working on the right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) of the work. Yarn B is always joined on the RS of the row and cut at the end of the row.

You can also cut your yarn at the end of each row and rejoin the yarn on the RS of the work.

Pattern is a 2 row repeat. Stitches are in multiples of 22, plus 2 so you can make any size blanket or scarf with this pattern!

Gauge

If using DK yarn and size 4.5mm hook, gauge is approx 1 patt rep across and 10 rows per 10cm/4inch.

Abbreviations

  • Chain: Ch
  • Chain space: ch-sp
  • Double crochet: dc (tr)
  • Double crochet 2 together: dc2tog (tr2tog)
  • Repeat: rep
  • Right side: RS
  • Single crochet: sc (dc)
  • Space: sp
  • Stitch: st
  • Stitches: sts

Let’s Crochet

Starting chain with Yarn B for contrasting edge

With Yarn B chain a multiple of 22 chains plus 1 chain. FO and break yarn.

Row 1 (RS): With Yarn A, join to the first chain and ch 2, make a dc (counts as a dc2tog), *[miss next ch, 2 dc in next ch] a total of 4 times, miss next ch, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch, [miss next ch, 2 dc in next ch] a total of 4 times, miss next ch, working over the next 3 sts, work a dc2tog by {[yo, insert hook in next ch, yo, pul, yo, pull through 2 loops], miss a stitch and rep, yo, pull through all 3 loops}; rep from * across ending last rep by working a standard dc2tog in last 2 sts. Remove hook from loop and place stitch marker to hold. Do not turn.

Continue to Row 2 as below.

Starting chain with Yarn A:

With Yarn A, chain a multiple of 22 chains plus 3 chains.

Row 1 (RS): Working into 4th ch from hook, make a dc (counts as a dc2tog), *[miss next ch, 2 dc in next ch] a total of 4 times, miss next ch, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch, [miss next ch, 2 dc in next ch] a total of 4 times, miss next ch, working over the next 3 sts, work a dc2tog by {[yo, insert hook in next ch, yo, pul, yo, pull through 2 loops], miss a stitch and rep, yo, pull through all 3 loops}; rep from * across ending last rep by working a standard dc2tog in last 2 sts. Remove hook from loop and place stitch marker to hold. Do not turn.

Row 2 (RS): Working on RS, miss first st, join Yarn B in space between 1st stitch and 2nd stitch and make a sc, ch 2, miss 2 dc, *[sc in space before next dc, ch 2, miss 2 dc] a total of 4 times, [sc, ch 1, sc] in ch 1 sp, ch 2, miss 2 dc, [sc in space before next dc**, ch 2, miss 2 dc] a total of 4 times, special sc2tog; rep from * across ending last rep at **. FO and break yarn.

Row 3 (WS/RS): Remove stitch marker from Yarn A two rows below, (or join Yarn A), chain 3, miss sc, dc in ch2-sp, *[miss sc, work 2 dc in ch2-sp] a total of 4 times, miss sc, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in ch1-sp, [miss sc, work 2 dc in ch2-sp] a total of 4 times, miss sc,** working over the next (ch2-sp, sc2tog, ch2-sp) make a special dc2tog; rep from * across ending last rep at **, dc in first st from two rows below.

Repeat Rows 2-3 for pattern.

When finished, fo and break yarn, weave in your ends.

I’d love to know what you’re going to make with the Mini Ripple Block Stitch , a baby blanket? Cowl? Cosy throw blanket? Let me know in the comments!

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  1. Laurie L Varner says:

    This going to be fun!!! Perfect candidate for the double border. No sewing in ends!!!!!

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